ERIN KEM’S culinary aesthetic is well-known to diners who have followed her moves from R Bistro, to Cannon Ball Brewing Company, to Scarlet Lane Brewing Company: clean, respectful of the ingredients, and globe-spanning. Last year, she and fellow chef and partner Logan McMahan brought their mindset of cooking what’s best rather than what’s TikTok-ing to Nicole-Taylor’s Pasta + Market + Backroom Eatery, the Monon Trail–side shop founded by Tony and Rosa Hanslits in 2008 that’s known for hard-to-snag private dinner reservations and wholesale pasta.

“They gave us carte blanche,” Kem says. “Tony, especially, said that we should do what we want.” But considering what they would keep and what they would make their own was no small task. How could they give up a pasta operation that has over a dozen local wholesale accounts and is a sure draw at local farmers markets? And all those orders for the Hanslits’ famous lasagna at the holidays? Forget about it. The pair and their small staff rolled up their sleeves and kept at it, layering over 120 pans of noodles and sauce for family gatherings last December. Then there’s the Nicole-Taylor’s chef’s table, which is known as the most soughtafter reservation in the region. The $1,750 evening for 8–10 people sells out a year in advance, with a collaborative, four-course menu served at a butcher block table in the kitchen. (You can buy beer or wine in the market or bring your own.) This year, Kem and McMahan used a lottery system to award 170 nights across 2024. Over 600 people applied.

None of those standbys are going away any time soon, Kem emphasizes. “The chef’s table, the pasta business, the lasagna—all these are too important to the business to walk away from. People love it too much.”

Kem confirms that another popular offering, the market’s daily lunch at the Backroom Eatery, is also sticking around. With a comforting and elegant menu that changes seasonally, recent offerings include a knockout rainbow trout served skin-on and perfectly seared. It arrives on a toss of spring vegetables, including baby potatoes, favas, radishes, and peas brought together with a healthy sprinkling of feta, dill, and an indulgent slice of herbed compound butter on top.

An equally seasonal dish of bucatini with shallots, asparagus, cream, and smoked salmon is as satisfying as it sounds, without the heft of many trattoria pasta entrees. The dish features the textbook house bucatini, which like all of Nicole-Taylor’s pastas, is vegan, with just flour and water in the recipe. You can buy some at the counter to take home or stop in for a serving of the decidedly unvegan, gooey, meaty lasagna. (Check the restaurant’s website for the most recent lunch menu, which rotates mid-summer and again in the fall.)

Kem and McMahan’s biggest departure is a plan to open a full-service dinner restaurant inside the NicoleTaylor’s space. Called Corridor, the spot will be a nod to the Mediterranean, North African, and Arab worlds, with lighter, vegetable-rich Mediterranean fare—a pivot well-served by McMahan’s flair for vegan dishes. It’s not easy to operate an already bustling business and open a new one at the same time, Kem notes, so the timeline to fully launch Corridor is still evolving. Diners can get a foretaste of things to come at regular pop-ups, festive special events, and the market’s monthly First Friday dinners.

One recent such dinner was redolent with saffron, cinnamon, and cumin, with highlights such as a creamy almond gazpacho starter and an aromatic bowl of the Moroccan stew Berber Harira, studded with fava beans, bits of wilted kale, and a lemony, tomato-rich broth.

Duck confit pappardelle took on an intriguing Egyptian flair with the traditional nut-and-spice condiment dukkah, as well as some nice richness from grated cured duck egg yolks. The dessert, a rendering of the Greek pastry with a creamy nut milk–based custard atop shredded phyllo, could have used a lighter touch of rosewater—a rare time when the pair’s hewing to tradition might have benefited from some tweaks.

Expect Corridor to continue to emerge into view as the year progresses. “It’s thanks to the chef’s table that we can afford to slowly transition to Corridor,” Kem says. “It’s a great night, and people always have a good time.” The lottery for the 2025 class of chef’s table reservations will launch in September, and all signs suggest they will sell out, too.

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Every month, Indianapolis Monthly staffers head out across the region, to restaurants both familiar and new. It’s the best way to ensure our restaurant guide (which is also printed in the last pages of every issue) is as current and correct as possible. These four spots were our best discoveries—or rediscoveries—in recent weeks. Know of a spot that deserves a visit? Drop us a line and we’ll check it out.

Aroma Experience 
2 stars (out of three)
885 Monon Green Blvd., Ste. 108, Carmel
317-993-3021
$20-$30, no reservations

Vinita Singh’s portfolio of restaurants expanded in March, 2024, when she brought a new location of her Aroma mini-chain of restaurants to Carmel City Center. Those who enjoy her Aroma Indian Cuisine and Bar spots in Fountain Square or SoBro will find plenty to like in this glitzy, date-night venue: The other locations’ daily dinner menus of Northern Indian dishes such as tikka masala and kerala-style curry are on offer, as are ambitious entrees including a lehsuni prawn dish that plays notably with Aroma’s coconut and cashew naan. (There’s also a chili garlic naan so engaging that one could enjoy it unaccompanied.) Lunch, which is served daily, is a more concise affair of bowls, rolls, and wraps; there’s also a full bar and some standout, homemade ice cream-based desserts.

Bluebeard
2 stars
653 Virginia Ave.
317-686-1580
$20-30, outdoor seating available, no reservations

When it opened in 2012, Tom and Ed Battista’s charming restaurant led the charge in getting Indy’s dining scene on the national radar. A perennial nominee for the prestigious James Beard Awards, with mentions in the likes of The New York Times, Condé Nast Traveler, and Bon Appétit, Bluebeard—which takes its name from one of native son Kurt Vonnegut’s novels—still delivers on the hype. The menu has settled into a comfortable groove, starting with sharable small plates such as house-frizzled chips and French onion dip, gourmet bar nuts, and grilled bread from sibling bakery Amelia’s served with a flight of slatherings.

Midsized dishes diners have grown to love: chopped salad; fat scallops over celery root puree, topped with pickled apples and jalapeño; and spaghetti tossed with créme fraiche, parmesan, and gremolata. A plate-spanning Faroe Island salmon, beef-and-pork Bolognese, and other larger entrees make for a nice, lingering dinner accompanied by cocktails in a delightfully shabby dining room decorated with shelves of books and Vonnegut-era typewriters.

Cooper & Cow 
1.5 stars 
8626 E. 116th St., Fishers
317-288-2801
$20-$30, reserve online

Louisville-based Endeavor Restaurant Group’s swashbuckling steakhouse in downtown Fishers is perhaps distinguished most by its intimacy and calm, where diners can actually hear their dinner companions across the table. The 4200-square-foot space, which was last an outpost of LouVino, has been transformed with well-appointed décor that recalls the swankier saloons of pre-Prohibition days. And while starters are sometimes a bit heavy, especially a thicker-than-expected crab bisque with little bite of sherry or brandy, surprisingly well-prepared seafood offerings shine just as much as prime aged filets, ribeyes, and wagyu flank steak.

The wine list boasts great vintages but bourbon cocktails such as the “Cooperage” old fashioned are a must, and king salmon with cranberry chutney and scallops with blackberry champagne gel show the kitchen’s skill, despite a somewhat pasty acorn squash puree. A house wagyu burger is more than dinner worthy, and sides such as fried Brussels sprouts with roasted garlic and bresaola are excellent for sharing. Save room for a towering wedge of bourbon-enriched chocolate cake with both dark chocolate ganache and milk chocolate buttercream.

Main & Madison Market Cafe
2 stars
100 N. Main St., Franklin
317-736-6246
$10-$20, outdoor seating available, no reservations

Franklin’s historic first hospital was reborn as a breakfast and lunch hot spot in 2018, when co-owners and cousins Amy Richardson and Stephanie Northern opened their bakery and cafe just steps from the city’s historic courthouse. With a Brooklyn-cool staff (many are students at nearby Franklin College) but Midwestern friendliness and prices, it’s easy to see why the restaurant attracts long lines for its rotating menu of sandwiches, soups, salads, and baked goods.

Their roasted red pepper and gouda soup is especially satisfying; that it’s served with one of their caramelized onion and goat cheese scones turns it into a special treat. Pastries like a sharable-sized pecan sticky bun or a stuffed peanut butter cookie are a sugar crash waiting to happen, but are more than worth the ride.

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Sidedoor Bagel
1103 E. 10th St.

Last year, Bon Appétit declared Josh and Emily Greeson’s business—which launched in 2021 out of Amelia’s bakery, pandemic-pivoted to an online-order delivery service, and eventually made its home along East 10th Street—among the “The Very Best Bagels in the US (Yes, Outside New York).” The newfound fame encouraged the Greesons to expand into a vacant space next door.

Customers won’t notice most of the buildout. “It mostly expanded our back-of-house area and made more room for a sandwich line,” says Emily. One thing the expansion did not include is a sit-down dining area. “We’ve always wanted to be a grab-and-go shop,” Emily says. “Like the ones on the East Coast.”

The best news is that now you can get those East Coast vibes all week, as Sidedoor recently announced that it would expand its hours to be open every day. New hours are Monday–Friday 7:30 a.m.–1:30 p.m., Saturday–Sunday 8:30 a.m.–1:30 p.m.

 

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Sam’s Square Pie
2.5 stars (out of three)
2829 E. 10th St.
Thu–Sat, 3–8 p.m.

I got my first taste of Jeff Miner’s lofty, crusty-edged Detroit-style pizza early last June at the loading dock of the Stutz Building on North Capitol. It was topped with pepperoni and lots of gooey brick cheese, and it was airy and perfectly chewy, a beguiling mix of textures with a signature stripe of tangy, slightly chunky sauce across the top.

Miner, who was going solo at one of the dozens of pop-ups he’d staged across the city since the early pandemic, fussed over the parbaked crust, making sure he had everything right before he slid the pie into a portable convection oven he’d brought with him, a true pizza obsessive in action. And it had only taken me two years to get a slice.

That’s because Miner, a longtime NFL Skycam operator and videographer, had created such an online following for his limited-edition operation that his inventory typically sold out mere minutes after the orders went live. I’d never been quick enough. But once I tasted his work, I knew I’d be back for more.

The inspiration for a career change came when Miner was covering a game in Denver and stopped in at the famed Blue Pan Pizza. “I went back for a concert, and I had it again,” Miner says. “I learned that the pans were once the ones [used] for oil changes that Italian American women working in Detroit cleaned up and used to make these amazing pizzas.”

That story—and the taste—inspired Miner to make his own, including three for his brother, the late and legendary DJ Ron Miner, better known to fans as Indiana Jones, on his 50th birthday.

“It was a party in June of 2020, when people were starting to do things outside. A lot of the crowd were restaurant chefs, as well as DJs and fashion people. They said the pizzas were so good I had to start making them for real.”

Six months later, when his brother died unexpectedly, Miner saw it as a sign. “It’s so strange that through a grief like that you fifind some brightness,” he says.

Since early February, that brightness has been a permanent pizzeria in the onetime home of 18th Street Brewery on East 10th Street. Now, devoted fans and first-time customers don’t have to rush to snag a pie, and Miner has slowly settled into life as a full-time restaurateur, though his hours, for now, are limited to three nights a week.

Miner has dressed the slender space with decor from local artists, such as a mural of flowers by Megan Jefferson and whimsical wire sculptures by Louisville-based Joel Pinkerton. He’s still applying for a liquor license, and he hopes to have bands doing “Tiny Sam’s Concerts” in the months ahead.

He also installed a Forza PizzaMaster oven, which has allowed him to refine his pies even further. He offers an idiosyncratic shortlist of cheese and meat-topped pies, such as the Bitchin Camaro, a pepperoni-lover’s dream, and the El Jefe, with pepperoni, kicked-up Italian sausage, and ricotta enlivened with garlic and jalapeños. Most pies get a restrained drizzle of hot honey, though the sweetness is subtle, and customers can request that the kitchen leave it off.

This is not the place to customize your pizza with a laundry list of typical toppings. “I want it to be like some of my favorite New York shops, where they have just pepperoni or cheese slices, and the line is down the block,” Miner says. These are filling, satisfying pies with Miner’s signature on just about every slice. That means that sometimes the edges are a little crustier or browner, or a slightly bubblier rise requires the kitchen to press the toppings down on the crust so they don’t slide off. It’s as far from mass-produced as pizza gets.

Miner has also added a few smaller-sized crusts to his menu most nights, and he’s experimented with Sicilian crusts, which are a bit thinner, larger, and without the Detroit style’s signature browned-cheese frico. If they’re available, get one, especially if it’s the High Plains Drifter with hot Italian sausage, pesto, ricotta, and smoked maple syrup, a creative combo that garnered Miner a second place ranking in both the Pan Pizza and Detroit-Style categories at the recent International Pizza Expo in Las Vegas.

Very respectable garlic knots and cheese bread are the only other options, though they’re likely to spoil your appetite for the main feature. After all, if I waited two years for my pizza, you can wait a few more minutes for yours.

Vibe: Neighborhood pizzeria
Tasting Notes: Textbook Detroit-style pan pizzas with sturdy, high-rising crusts, a crackly cheese frico around the edge, and loads of tasty toppings
Neighborhood: Rivoli Park
Must-order: The El Jefe pie with two styles of pepperoni, Italian sausage, dollops of tangy jalapeño-garlic ricotta, and a drizzle of hot honey

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WHILE IT MAY be closing in on 100,000 residents today, in 1920, Fishers was a railroad town of just under 150 that had only recently dropped the word “Switch” from its name. At the start of Prohibition, there likely weren’t many speakeasies in town with wingback chairs, shimmery flocked wallpaper, and bars wrapped in sculpted tin tiles. That Louisville-based Endeavor Restaurant Group is aiming for just such a low-lit vintage aesthetic at its newest restaurant venture may be surprising, given that everything in Fishers’ rapidly developing downtown seems aimed at showing off contemporary suburban ingenuity. But Cooper & Cow pulls off the retro mystique, both in its sparkle and in its soft-spoken vibe, giving hope that quiet, elegant dinner spots are back in style.

“We weren’t necessarily going for fine dining,” says general manager Matt Bauer, who was brought onto the project last August. “We wanted something with a bit more of a raw look, with a quieter, date night appeal.” To achieve that, Endeavor capped the modest space at just around 100 seats and limited party size to six. Background jazz may be from decades after Prohibition, but you can easily chat over it. And while much of the unfinished look of the former LouVino stayed, including the rustic wood tabletops, the new owners redesigned the cabinetry behind the bar with a rolling access ladder. Bourbon barrels were sourced from spirits vendors as an homage to CEO Steve Ritchie’s ancestor John Ritchie, one of Kentucky’s first bourbon distillers. That means the house Cooperage Old Fashioned made with Sazerac bourbon is one of the smoothest in the city, with welcome rich undertones of two kinds of bitters.

What is less of a surprise is the new concept’s dinner fare. A glance at a list of last year’s restaurant openings makes it clear that, at least when it comes to steakhouses, Indianapolis can’t quit them. For now, Cooper & Cow’s slate of USDA Prime aged cuts is short and overseen by Anthony’s Chophouse and Prime 47 veteran chef Scott Marmaduke, who peppers the menu with plentiful seafood offerings and modern twists, both gilded and dressed down. He dolls up the more typical shrimp cocktail with shell-on lobster tail and Scotch-scented cocktail sauce while at the same time offering a funky deconstructed take on the Chinese American favorite crab rangoon as a hearty dip with wonton chips. More traditional starters pack good flavor but could use some refining. Crab bisque is thick, without the expected lightness of seafood stock or the bracing hit of sherry and brandy. A wedge salad is made less stuffy with a light, bourbon-enriched vinaigrette, but shredded white cheddar lacks much richness or tang. Main dishes, however, are where Marmaduke’s kitchen shines. A platter of ultra-tender, beautifully marbled wagyu flank steak is unlike most chophouse offerings, delicious on its own but even better with a restrained pour of bourbon mushroom cream.

King salmon is lush, flaky, and perfectly seared, with tangy counterpoints from chunky cranberry chutney and aromatic marinated fennel. The risotto on the side may be a bit beyond al dente, but a salty, savory hit of parmesan is a great match to the salmon. The house burger, also made with wagyu beef, is juicy without being messy, and it benefits from a slab-cut slice of crisp bacon and aioli lavished with caramelized onions. A bowl of deeply charred fried Brussels sprouts from the list of sides holds its own against other versions around town, brightened with champagne vinegar and finished with roasted garlic and bits of salty Bresaola.

Cooper & Cow’s arresting multitiered bourbon chocolate cake is the true showstopper, with layers of moist cake and fudgy ganache that are surprisingly less sweet than most steakhouse desserts. An artful crown of cut sugar glass makes it worthy of any birthday or anniversary. Bauer says the restaurant is in the process of renovating its patio to include somewhere around 40 additional seats this spring, with pendant lighting and leftover patio fixtures from LouVino to help carry the interior ambiance outside. Whether the feel leans more toward the Fishers of the 1920s or the 2020s, diners will welcome the comfy swagger, and they’ll feel transported to a time when an intimate, elegant meal in serene environs was more the rule of the day.

COOPER & COW 8626 E. 116th St., Fishers 317-288-2801 HOURS Mon–Thu 5–9 p.m., Fri–Sat 5–10 p.m., Sun 4–9 p.m. VIBE Speakeasy steakhouse TASTING NOTES Prime aged steaks, thoughtful seafood options, and classic sides with rustic modern touches NEIGHBORHOOD Downtown Fishers MUST-ORDER Flaky, moist king salmon with parmesan risotto, tender wagyu flank steak, seared scallops, and a smooth house old fashioned

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BEFORE THEY had five “northern woods–inspired” grills, three speakeasy-style cocktail lounges, a neighborhood trattoria, and, for good measure, a college-town sports bar, avid travelers and self-proclaimed foodies Nyla and Scott Wolf were just getting their feet under them in the restaurant business. This was the early days of the locavore movement in the 1990s, and Nyla wanted to start a farmers market to offer fresh produce, plants, Christmas trees, and, eventually, a few morning food offerings. So, the couple opened Hillsdale Farmers Market.

They followed this up with the self-named Nyla’s Market and Cafe, located in a onetime gas station in Noblesville, where they served breakfast and homey lunch sandwiches. Both Hillsdale and the original Nyla’s closed in 2004, but the earlier Nyla’s menu comes as a novelty postcard with your bill at the Wolfs’ newest effort—also called Nyla’s. The cute parting gift also arrives with a note of clarification from the staff: You can’t order a Round Up Club or a chicken salad plate anymore.

That’s because the new Nyla’s represents just how far the Wolfs have come in their appreciation of food in the two decades since the original cafe closed. And, perhaps more tellingly, it represents the maturing culinary tastes of their clientele. The Wolfs first branched out from family-friendly fare when they opened The Italian House on Park Street, the secluded, unofficial restaurant row of Old Town Westfield, in 2017. Nyla’s, which made its debut in antique dealer Bob Beauchamp’s meticulously restored red barn next door to The Italian House last spring, raises the stakes. “We wanted a bigger language for our food,” says the Wolfs’ son Alec. “We needed a place to showcase our family’s true passion.”

Expanding their menu meant flying Honduran-born chef Esli Alfaro to Naples, Florida, one of the Wolfs’ frequent vacation stops, as well as having him stop in at classic steakhouses in Chicago and Louisville to try some of the family’s favorite dishes as the restaurant’s concept was coming together. Alfaro and fellow chef Sarah Sinclair, both borrowed from the kitchen at The Italian House, drew on the Wolfs’ tastes for their chophouse menu with a Southern accent, best expressed in perfectly crunchy, tender, cornmeal-crusted oysters with a lush red pepper remoulade. Other hits among starters include deviled eggs that come with both bits of candied bacon and whole slices of thick-cut bacon on top, a decadent touch that risks spoiling your dinner. And while a plate of tender filet tips with crostini and crisp pickled onions makes a nice light supper on its own, the accompanying fondue has a slightly muted punch of Gorgonzola.

All these dolled-up rustic plates feel utterly at home in one of the coziest, old-meets-new dining rooms you’ll find in the modern sprawl of Indy’s suburban north side. Just approaching Nyla’s from the outside, with its spot set back from the shady street and its strands of twinkling lights, will take you to earlier times. With several other dining options on the block—not to mention the Wolfs’ next venture, a cocktail and cold plate spot called The Swanky Mule, opening this month in a former flower shop on the street—parking can be scarce. So, too, are reservations at the 60-seat eatery. Despite its size, Nyla’s will charm you. The small but well-stocked bar just inside the door shakes up especially balanced and restrained cocktails, including a smooth rum old fashioned and a not-too-bracing espresso martini.

Alfaro and Sinclair put together artful entrees out of the palette of ingredients they’re working with in the adjacent kitchen, which was previously ice cream shop Cone + Crumb and is now connected via a breezeway. Well-seasoned, juicy fried chicken pairs with creamy gravy and horseradish-scented mashed potatoes. A trio of double-bone lamp chops are succulent and meaty, and while steaks live up to the Wolfs’ standards from other cities, a thick-cut bone-in pork chop lavished with bacon jam may outscore the beef. Don’t leave without a slice of the signature chocolate cake with strawberry sauce and ice cream, a sweet finish you might not need but that will let you lounge for a while longer as you drink in more of the atmosphere.

NYLA’S 211 Park St., Westfield 317-763-5412  HOURS Tue–Thu 5–10 p.m., Fri –Sat 4–10 p.m.  VIBE Rustic chophouse  TASTING NOTES Classic steakhouse fare with new American twists like miso-marinated sea bass and a veggie Wellington  NEIGHBORHOOD Downtown Westfield  MUST-ORDER Crisp and succulent fried oysters, a generous pork chop with bacon jam, and juicy, lighter-than-expected fried chicken with country gravy.

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A CARDINAL RULE of restaurant criticism is not to say anything, good or bad, about the men’s room. But when the walls are papered in a whimsical woodland scene of bears tossing pepperoni pizzas and carrying takeout bags, a one-of-a-kind feature that seems like it would garner more mealtime conversation were it actually in the dining room, it’s worth mentioning. It’s one of the details at Theo’s Italian, one of the latest and more curious efforts of the ever-growing Cunningham Restaurant Group, that lets you know the place was named in honor of a 4-year-old—specifically, CEO Mike Cunningham’s first grandson, Theo.

CRG has expanded its culinary empire to three states and every corner of the Indy metro area, covering every flavor from new American and tapas to burgers and brunch, not to mention offering custom box lunches private dining spaces, and a members-only speakeasy, so the likelihood that local diners have experienced the care and attention Cunningham’s staff lend to plating and service is high. Indy’s west side has long embraced the group, with Stone Creek Dining Company, Bru Burger Bar, and the CRG Event Center all clustered within sight of The Shops at Perry Crossing, which now houses Theo’s. Indeed, last summer’s relocation of Stone Creek to the former Claddagh Irish Pub spot, which gave it more square footage and visibility, left a bonus space for Cunningham to let his imagination run wild. Why not open the kind of place you’d take your grandkids for pizza night and add dolled-up scratch-made pastas and cocktails that won’t leave the adults at the table wanting?

That’s exactly the feel at Theo’s, which opened early last October, whether you’re dropping in for a post-shopping nosh or driving out from the city. Its soaring two-story main atrium has a muted palette of earth tones, with just enough yellow and red accents and an open kitchen peeking in from the back to let you know its aspirations are beyond the local red sauce joint. Yet the menu dispenses with typical trattoria entrees such as osso buco or veal parmigiana. Despite this, executive chef Nova Richardson’s offerings lean a bit more toward parents’ tastes than fare for kiddies. A crisscrossed pile of perfectly chewy, parmesan-showered breadsticks with crunchy garlic chips is a must for young and old alike. And parmesan chicken pastina soup, a nod to the viral Italian American heal-all, packs plenty of comfort, though its broth is much thicker and lusher than usual, with shells instead of the traditional tiny tubes of pasta.

Whether you bring the family along or not, cocktails from the cozy bar will soothe with their savory touches, especially the Italian Bird made with rum, herbal Campari, sherry, and a drop of salted honey. Calamari, enlivened with somewhat more crowd-pleasing fried shrimp, wears a welcome crunchy crust and comes plated atop a generous swath of restrained Calabrian chili aioli. A Caesar salad with Brussels sprouts swapped for the romaine is a beauty on the plate, with a stripe of ultra-creamy dressing underneath. A healthy helping of fried pancetta may weigh on the salad a bit, and the sprouts could use a bit more time softening up in the dressing. Pastas are where the CRG touch shines the most, borrowing the custom-made tagliatelle and ziti from the same production kitchen as the more upscale Nesso. The casarecce is hearty and sophisticated, with a meaty pork and beef ragu and fresh touches of al dente Swiss chard and sweet shallots.

But you’re here for the pizza, right? Theo’s takes liberties with its pies as well, featuring the lesser-known but trending Roman-style pinsa flatbreads with an airier, more moist dough shaped into an oval that lends itself to less typical topping combinations. The kids may prefer it for its easier-to-manage square-cut slices, especially with just cheese or pepperoni. Be sure to order a second for the table, preferably the Fig Pig Goat, which has all the savory-sweet elements of a charcuterie board—prosciutto, goat cheese, and fig preserves—crowned with arugula, tangy pickled onions, and a drizzle of garlic-scented honey.

For desserts, tiramisu may be the obvious choice, and a slender rectangular slice is especially creamy, with a dusting of espresso that coffee lovers will appreciate. But the winner among the sweets is the Italian cream cake, a just-dense-enough double-decker treat studded with chewy coconut and pecans and filled with a sweet cream cheese filling. Cunningham has no immediate plans to franchise Theo’s—he has just the one grandson so far, after all. So you’ll need to plan a shopping trip to Plainfield if you want to try its updates to Italian classics. Just be sure to bring the kids.

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You could see it in the lunchtime broccoli rabe and mushroom torta Esteban Rosas and Gabriel Sañudo cooked up in the pre-pandemic table service at Black Market. You could smell it in the slow-braised lamb birria they piled onto tortillas on the patio later that summer as the Mass Ave institution counted down its last days. And you could feel it in the Con Todo pop-ups the pair staged all over the city as they waited for their dream restaurant to open.

“A lotta love.” It’s a refrain Rosas repeats often. He opened the tiny walk-up Julieta Taco Shop in the recently rejuvenated Stutz Building with fellow chef and friend Sañudo late last summer. Ask him what’s so special about the tacos, tortas, and churros that the duo—both French-trained and with cred from places as diverse as Milktooth, Rook, and Meridian Hills Country Club—serves up, and he’ll insist it’s just their mothers’ recipes, the kind of dishes they grew up on. And, well, doing everything right.

That means sourcing 50-pound bags of heirloom varietal corn from Los Angeles–based Masienda, cooking it using variations that depend on the corn, turning it into fine masa with a volcanic stone grinder, and pressing it into sturdy, crisp-around-the-edges tortillas in a rainbow of hues, all under the eye of Rosas’ mother, Yolanda, who has spent a lifetime perfecting the process. It means enlisting Sañudo’s mother, Blanca, for the custom marinades for all the meats, including the adobo for the pork shoulder skewered for the shop’s signature shaved al pastor tacos. It means having their fathers slice the meat and wipe down the windows.

It also means taking nearly four years from when they were approached by New York–based SomeraRoad, the real estate development firm behind the Stutz Building’s rebirth, to perfect the recipes they first tried out at Black Market. It also took time to get their spartan but colorful 870-square-foot taco shop just how they wanted it, including a late name change that honors Sañudo’s grandmother Julieta, as well as his mother, who has the same middle name. Fine touches overseen by Parallel Design Group include artfully subdued tilework at the counter, funky vintage lighting, and a mural of a skeleton munching a taco in a thicket of cacti and tropical plants. It may surprise other chefs more accustomed to working in sit-down spots, but having just a few stools for tucking away tacos was always the plan.

Good fortune had it that Turner’s, a throwback auto racing–themed watering hole curated by restaurateur Eddie Sahm, was planned for next door, so you can get your victuals through the kitchen window under a flashing neon sign that simply reads, “TACOS.” It’s choreographed yet utterly hip.

Julieta’s pegboard menu of around a half-dozen daily offerings isn’t a compromise but a promise that everything is as good as it can be. That means anyone who’s had real-deal tacos al pastor will recognize the spot-on char and smokiness of the meat shaved from Julieta’s rotating spit. It’s best enjoyed “vampiro-style” with cheese griddled inside the tortilla, a funky touch Sañudo first saw in Mexico City. Along with suadero (a rich, braised brisket–like beef cut), juicy pollo asado, and carnitas tacos, the al pastor is among the shop’s quartet of standards, and it’s tempting to stick with them. But the rice and beans are surprisingly satisfying for being meat-free.

Sañudo and Rosas somehow coax so much flavor from the roasted poblanos, tomatillos, and aromatics in their vegetarian pozole that you will never miss the chicken or pork. And the careful blending of fats with masa makes their tamales almost ethereal in their creaminess, whether studded with poblanos and Swiss chard, stuffed with a slice of just-melting queso fresco in the middle, or topped with citrusy cochinita pibil.

Crispy shrimp, red snapper, and octopus also make occasional appearances in elevated preparations. Churros, the one frequent sweet offering, are golden and light, served with a complex dark chocolate dipping sauce.

For such a small place, Sañudo and Rosas admit it’s a lot more work than they anticipated, and they often prep for the evening using every bit of storage space their kitchen offers. As for franchising the concept, the pair definitely has plans. “But only if we can get it right,” Rosas points out. Sañudo is quick to agree. 1060 N. Capitol Ave.

Julieta Taco Shop

Hours: Tue–Thu 11 a.m.–2 p.m., 3–8 p.m., Fri–Sat 11 a.m.–2 p.m., 3–10 p.m.

Vibe: Walk-up taqueria

Tasting Notes: Mexico City-style tacos and tortas served on handmade tortillas with flavorful house salsas

Neighborhood: The Stutz Building

Must-Order: Tacos al pastor sliced directly from the spit; earthy, rarely seen suadero; and one-off daily dishes such as fluffy tamales, vegetarian pozole, and light, airy churros.

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[See image gallery at www.indianapolismonthly.com] Photos by Tony Valainis

OF ALL THE spinoffs of the original Taxman Brewing Company concept—far-flung gastropubs, farm-to-table fare, Neapolitan pizza, and, as of late spring, a bakery featuring flaky croissants and house-made gelato—steak was the one we didn’t see coming. It wasn’t exactly in Leah and Nathan Huelsebusch’s crystal ball, either. They had their eyes on other business ventures, including the purchase of an iconic 6,800-square-foot grain elevator within sight of their original operation. But the couple who conceived of a Belgian-inspired brewery in a defunct bolt factory in Bargersville in 2014—and no doubt had a hand in the sleepy burg’s recent population surge—had hoped they might rouse other entrepreneurs to join the southside awakening. When none did, the wheels started turning. “We kept hearing from our customers that what the south side needed was a great steakhouse,” Nathan says, “something a cut above nearby strip mall steak chains.” They were already renovating the historic Masonic lodge that shared a wall with their recently opened Pizza & Libations, which came with a bonus second-floor space with a hidden entrance. The well-documented three-year sojourn they took in Belgium—which inspired Taxman—had also included jaunts to wine regions and bistros in France. Could the old lodge be the place to feature one of their other culinary loves? Why not? they thought. The result is Up Cellar, a speakeasy-style spot for steak and spirits that, matching its unassuming signage and shadowy stairwell entryway, opened with almost no fanfare in May. But that’s what makes it—both for locals in the know and for the intrepid Indy folk who brave the half-hour drive south—so unexpected. At the top of the stairs waits an equally low-lit supper club lined with banquette seating, finished in a subdued palette of gray and taupe. What light there is comes mainly from cut-glass midcentury chandeliers and a row of vintage wall sconces hung from black-and-white graphic paintings, all of which lends a slightly Gatsby-esque aura to the place (belied by a heavy-handed soundtrack of rock classics reinterpreted as jazz). It’s sleek and just out-of-the-box enough to feel like a destination.

A recent retooling under executive chef Cole Padgett standardized the menus across all the Huelsebusches’ brewpub locations, but burgers, frites, hearty salads, and dressed-up Brussels sprouts have long been local standards, making selling beer and pub food a forgiving venture. Getting the formula for wine and steak right is trickier, as the Huelsebusches found out in the five months since they opened Up Cellar.

One thing the Up Cellar kitchen got right at the start is the house crabcake, which alone can garner plenty of reviewers’ stars. A mountain of sweet lump crab meat is held together with a light but sturdy crust of breadcrumbs that acts as a textural counterpoint. Cool shavings of fennel and slices of grapefruit are far from expected garnishes, as are artful dollops of smoky, orange-scented aioli in two colors. The dish is portioned easily enough for four, extravagantly for two. It’s great with your first sip of pinot or perhaps even better with a playful cocktail, such as the earthy, smoked lavender Sazerac, presented with a wooden lid that opens to reveal wisps of aromatic smoke. Salads, though, vary mysteriously—one night you may get a watery chopped salad with scant, chewy toppings and another, a garden-fresh kale Caesar with a refreshingly garlic-forward dressing. Steaks, well-seared but not aggressively so, stand up to those at respected chophouses, but are drenched in bearnaise sauce. Tasting the meat is near impossible. Ordered sans sauce, the full-flavored sirloin is succulent and expertly seasoned. A tender, cooked-to-medium Fischer Farms pork chop is also better without its thick crust of blue cheese and peaches, but the scallops accompanied by maitake mushrooms and the salmon garnished with a bright mango-cucumber salsa show restraint among the seafood offerings. A Maple Leaf Farms duck breast atop a silky sweet potato puree is worth forgoing steak, owing to the juicy pink center and the interplay of coarse salt with fruity blackberry merlot sauce.

Desserts stay in familiar steakhouse territory. A scoop of gelato from the Cellar Market downstairs is a good choice, especially pistachio or salted caramel. By contrast, the nearly obligatory molten chocolate cake is a nice departure, much more an actual cake with a moist crumb than typical liquid-center versions, with a welcome bittersweet edge.

Just when we started pining for the simpler days of a freshly tapped farmhouse ale and a salmon club, we realize the Huelsebusches are on their way to another hit in the bucolic village that first made them famous.

UP CELLAR

63 N. Baldwin St., Bargersville, 317-533-0845, theupcellar.com

HOURS

Wed–Sun 5–11 p.m.

VIBE

Steakhouse speakeasy

TASTING NOTES

Steakhouse standards with hearty sides, solid seafood offerings, and seasonally inspired creations sourced from local producers, such as Fischer Farms and Heirloom Acres

NEIGHBORHOOD

Bargersville

MUST-ORDER

A crispy crabcake pairs with a smoked lavender Sazerac to start. A kale Caesar and well-seared sirloin are great bets. Finish with a not-too-sweet molten chocolate cake.

The post Review: Up Cellar appeared first on Indianapolis Monthly.

THE COLOR of the new Cafe Patachou in the Stutz Building is Sherwin-Williams Halcyon Green, a restful green-gray that skews dusty blue in a certain light. Patachou owner Martha Hoover has used it in every bedroom in her homes for 40 years and leaned on the hue to anchor her two latest openings, the Stutz location and the Zionsville Patachou that debuted in August.

“Restaurants, to me, are about transporting people,” Hoover says. She is the lead designer on all Patachou restaurants, working in collaboration with Delv Design architectural designers, Zesco for kitchen layouts, Jennie Hanson-Slaff of Calico Corners for draperies and upholstery, Robyn Harder of RK Florals, and other craftspeople. Construction on a Fishers location is underway. Design is one of her passions, and it’s as much a part of Patachou’s success as high-quality ingredients and exquisite service. There is a signature Patachou ambiance—chic, relaxed, friendly—if not a look.

“The goal is for the customer to know, without literally knowing, that they’re at a Patachou restaurant,” Hoover says. “The style of service, the style of food, but also the ambiance. There’s something about ambiance that you can’t always describe using words. You get [it] in your gut.”

One guiding principle is avoiding clutter and chaos. Restaurants are naturally bustling places, and Hoover, who hates messiness, tamps down the visual noise with restrained design. There’s drama, but no tension is created by having a lot of stuff (even artwork). That’s one reason most Patachou restaurants have banquettes—they create order and reduce the number of tables and chairs that can be moved around.

Over the years, Hoover has evolved Patachou’s monochromatic leanings to include more color, cheeky winks, and some edge, like the bookshelf at the Stutz location curated with feminist themes. It’s no accident that a spine reading “Wild Sex” in large lettering is front and center. The floras in glass cloches on the shelf add dashes of elegance, while murals with neon bears bring in whimsy and attitude. Are they a nod to pot edibles? Maybe, Hoover said in an Instagram video. But they’re mainly a reference to the gummies that another of Hoover’s enterprises, Bar One Fourteen, used to serve.

On the eve of the opening of the Stutz location, Hoover met with us in the cafe’s private dining room—a first for a Patachou restaurant—and discussed the design intention behind each of her eateries.

Cafe Patachou, 49th and Penn

The original Patachou, opened in 1989 in a different space in the same building, moved a few doors down when Hamaker Pharmacy moved out. Hoover always loved the corner doors and large windows. Most Patachou locations are in a building with some history, which always informs the design. Here, the timeless black and white color scheme speaks to the building’s vintage charm.

Cafe Patachou, Zionsville

The palette is similar to the Stutz location with Halcyon Green, black, and cream, but it’s more intimate and leans into the village feel, Hoover says. The brown overhead lamps are made from saddle leather, a nod to the area’s equestrian culture.

Cafe Patachou, River Crossing

One of the older locations, this design is due for a facelift soon. One item that will always remain in every Patachou is the coffee mug tree—actually a rack for drying champagne bottles, part of the company’s French influence from day one. “That’s an example of threading the needle with something familiar,” Hoover says. They are hard to find. She snaps them up on antiquing websites and plans to start having them made for the restaurants.

Cafe Patachou, Stutz Building

Hoover loved the direction that redevelopers took with the Stutz Building honoring its history as a car factory and wanted to be part of it. Full-height velvet curtains and oversized florals set an elegant tone against the industrial column, and Hoover chose the light fixtures because they felt consistent with the 1912 building’s period—like they could be gaslit. And she loves the glow. “They throw this gold light that makes everyone look beautiful,” she says.

Bar One Fourteen

The private event space has the moodiest atmosphere of the Patachou family. The sexy 350-square-foot hideout was Hoover’s favorite place to design, and she wanted the dark den to feel like “a bat cave,” creating mystery when you enter. Once your eyes adjust to the darkness, the space reveals itself and transports you to another place. The banquettes are upholstered in mohair, and the cabinetry feels residential. “It feels to me like you might not want to leave for a very long time,” Hoover says.

Petite Chou Bistro and Champagne Bar, Broad Ripple

The colorful interior captures the verve and panache of a French bistro. “You can sink into it and feel transported,” Hoover says. “I bought the graphic prints on the wall in Paris. The antiquey tables wouldn’t work in a Patachou. Customers notice details like that.”

Napolese Pizzeria, 49th and Penn

A redesign introduces dramatic, Rembrandt-esque floral wallcoverings. “There’s no reason to eat pizza in an ugly space,” Hoover says. “Pizza and salad deserve the same respect [that high-end food does].”

Apocalypse Burger

“Snarky, fun, good. Just clean, modern design,” Hoover says.

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